Football is everything in Argentina: What it was like watching Maradona - a journalist's tale

Working long hours in Argentina was stressful, but there were sporting compensations.

Friendly, warm colleagues took me under their wing and we watched cricket at some of the wonderful grounds built by the British, there was Pumas rugby, horse racing, tennis, polo, hockey and pelota, too. All good, but of no consequence compared with football. Football is king, football is life, football is everything in Argentina, as witnessed by the huge, joyous crowds in Buenos Aires expressing their joy – and relief – at Argentina’s breath taking World Cup win. And, I went to see Maradona play.

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After WW2 Argentina was one of the richest countries in the world, sending aid to us, and the superb colonial buildings in the capital confirm the former wealth. And, with abundant fish, meat, fruit and vegetables, the country is enviably self sufficient in food. But, miss-management has reduced the country to a basket case with rocketing inflation and wide-spread abject poverty. 25 years ago, one Argentine peso was worth one US dollar, now it is 173 pesos to the dollar. Football is a welcome distraction from daily woes, and by comparison with Argentine fervour, we are only mildly interested in the game.

Before seeing Maradona I watched his club, Boca Juniors v River Plate – the great man wasn’t playing but this was a huge clash, akin to Celtic v Rangers, only much more so. We were in a group of supporters – from both camps – and as the lead switched from one team to the other, it became more and more tense, with tears flowing, and it didn’t end well. But, next day in the office, happiness returned – as a rule Argentines don’t harbour grudges.

That was a good rehearsal for Maradona trip. The huge Boca stadium is in a lively artisan area of brightly coloured houses and tango bars, but it was considered too dangerous to host the game, against Racing, there. So, it was played on neutral territory, and we were advised to arrive and leave early to avoid any possibility of trouble. On arrival a steward showed us to our seats, which he kindly wiped down.

There had been a dispute about the start time – to fit their schedule the TV company transmitting the game wanted the kick off to be half an hour earlier than the great man’s preference, and eventually a mid point compromise was agreed. However, Boca took to the field several minutes late, and by the time Maradona had re-tied both boot laces and had a prolonged chat with his bench, kick off had been delayed to the time he wanted. Unfortunately it was the anniversary of the end of the Falklands war so the anthem was played, and I was warned not to speak in English.

Approaching the end of his career, Maradona was over-weight, slow and dirty, but he still delivered deft touches to the delight of his supporters, and it was a huge spectacle with a Boca fan dressed as a bird lowered on a cable from the roof of the main stand into a horizontal flying position from the eaves to celebrate Boca’s goals, amid coloured smoke, fireworks and skirmishes from the Racing fans. The result mattered not – to me, and we listened to the last 10 minutes commentary of the game as we sped away from the ground.

Argentine fans may not be familiar with Bill Shankly’s quote: “Some people think football is a matter of life and death. I assure you, it’s much more serious than that” – but it was surely designed for them.